Yearly Haul Out Maintenance
Goal: Fast smooth bottom.
- Replace rudder bearing.
- New Baltoplate bottom.
- Inspect keel for blisters.
Goal: Minimal weather helm, mast bend matched to main luff curve, tight forestay and reduce mast pumping. Mast tunning and sail recuts was closely coordinated with Sobstad Annapolis.
- Slide mast base plate forward and block mast full aft at deck. This will decrease mast prebend and allow increase forestay tension.
- Measure mast bend. (see spreadsheet)
- Measure forestay length.
- Rework back-stay control with 4:1 pulling 4:1 pulling 2:1 for a total of 32:1 purchase.
Sail Maintenance and Replacement
Goal: New high-tech sails
- Get main re-cut to new mast rake and open foot along boom.
- Get 100% Class Jib recut.
- Buy new main, jib, and genoa. (Keep rollerfurler.)
- Document new and old sails with pictures.
Goal: Reduce weight in ends of boats and move all required gear to lower center of boat.
- Replace V-berth plywood with light weight replacement.
- Remove head door.
- Remove all unnecessary weight from under cockpit (bumpers, spare line, cleaning gear, etc.)
- Reduce tools and spare parts to race minimum and move to storage under quarter berth.
- Move all PHRF required gear, safety gear and miscellaneous gear to storage under quarter berth.
- Replace main and jib halyards, topping lift, and backstay with light weight replacement (See spreadsheet)
- Weigh all gear on board.
Sail Handling Improvements
Goal: Better offwind jib and genoa trim, repeatable sail adjustments, better spinnaker handling
- Barber haulers for jib and genoa.
- Mark spinnaker halyard at mast cleat and sheet stopper to indicate full hoist.
- Mark main halyard to indicate full hoist and repeatable luff tension.
- Mark jib halyard to indicate repeatable luff tension.
- Rig round spinnaker bags for forward hatch launch and take down.
We swiped this tip from our brethren at the J/105 Web Site. We hope they won't mind.
Most J/92s are now sailing with all rope halyards. If your boat originally had wire/rope halyards, be careful of burrs at the mast exits which can quickly chew your new rope halyards. File down any sharp edges which may have been created by the old wire. It's also a good idea to use longer rope halyards so they can be shortened occasionally to avoid chafing at the rope clutch.
If you are looking to install adjustable leads on your boat and don't want to go to the expense of the Harken leads, Matt Frey gave us information on the set-up for his boat. He used Schaefer roller blocks with two welded eyes at the end of each car. Ronstan mini doubles and mini doubles with beckets create a 4:1 ratio. The line he used was 3/16" prestretch led to cam cleats. This setup costs about $400 less than the Harken system with close to the same results.
by Tom Creeden, J/92 "Quetzal" #67
Refer to the diagram. The lazy sheet is under the tackline (for an inside jibe) and is the only line that is crossed. This makes a very clean foredeck. To set, we set the pole, pre-feed the tack and clew and hoist away. This seems to work very well for us. I can't remember the last time we had a wrap during the set. We do not use a bag below, although one could if they were concerned about a snag below deck. When hooking up the halyard as shown in the diagram, remember to have the halyard outside the jib sheets.
Yanmar hand crank modifications for the J92 by Cyclone #80
As many of you know the stock Yanmar hand crank does not work on the J92 because of the bulkhead in front of the engine.
The stock handle needs about 4 inches to make it work.
First step is to cut the handle apart by cutting the part that fits in the engine off of the handle part. I used a band saw but a hacksaw would work just fine as alignment will be taken care of by the hole
Next I found some rod that fit inside the hole in the handle. I used a piece about 12 in long. I also found a tube about 8 inches long. This tube will slide over the rod and provide a convenient place for a hand hold while turning the crank.
I TIG welded the part because I could, MIG, arc or gas would work just fine too. Brazing would not be strong enough. I made the rod flush with the back side of the handle and inserted the rod enough to preserve alignment with the engine side. Tube should be able to spin freely on the rod.
Total time not including paint was about one hour. I had the materials in my scrap bin. The rod and tube were just some SAE 1020 low carbon steel that I had laying around. I would guess that a welding shop would hit you $20 and one hour of labor.
Starting procedure. MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS IN NEUTRAL AND AT LOW IDLE SPEED. Turn the key on, make sure that the shutdown lever is in the run position. If you hold the decompression valve open with one hand while cranking with the other you can get some speed up. When you release the decompression valve move that hand to the shaft and get ready you will still have to put some OMMPH into getting over the compression stroke. Engine should start immediately. Be careful not to cross your arms and keep your face and legs out of the way. The Yanmar crank is designed so it will only crank in one direction and the engine will push it out when it starts. However make sure that the handle slides in and out of the engine easily. On my first try the engine did not release the crank and started with the crank still in the engine. Boy does it vibrate when that happens. If it happens to you DO NOT TRY AND STOP OR REMOVE THE CRANK! Just pull the shutdown lever and engine will stop. Starting with the hand crank may seem scary but it you ever hand cranked a Model T or kick started a Harley, this engine is easy.